Jim Nabors Sings Pa Pa

. Quiet PC Samsung EcoGreen

discs quietest formats currently available on 3.5 "disks are Western Caviar Green and Samsung EcoGreen, both 5400rpm. The reason is that spin more slowly produce less noise, although with a slight loss of performance.

In this comparative they do in BeHardware , we can find just these two models, face to face, in their versions of 1TB. And not only can find it, but how are these discs compared to other market like the Samsung F1 or the Caviar Black, also considered relatively quiet despite its 7200 rpm.

Below are the most interesting charts this comparison:

Yield:

Synthetic Tests PCMark
• File Copy
• IOMeter

Interesting to SilentPC:

• Noise, temperature and consumption

As can be see the comparison, one can conclude that between Samsung and Western Digital EcoGreen Green leaves the Samsung slightly quieter. The difference is really small, less than 0.5 dB, both AAM (Automatic Acoustic Management) enabled as without it. But it is also interesting to note that the Samsung also pays more than the Western Digital, so I finally I would choose the Samsung if I had to buy one of them.

disk storage for large silent nothing quieter than we find that these two models. I would comment that I have two Western Digital Green drives on my computers, and with AAM enabled and encapsulated in coolpacks are completely inaudible at a distance of 1m. even in the quietest of environments.

Finally comment with respect to the other discs, the Samsung F1 and the Western Digital Black, we conclude that as expected: the latter are more noisy but also faster. If we as quiet as the market would choose the Green or EcoGreen, but if you prefer performance would have to seek alternatives.

In the not too distant future this decision vs. fast hard disk. Silent hard disk will be much less complicated, since solid state drives promise to improve in both areas: completely silent and unreachable access times for current drives. They still have other problems, capacities, prices, durability, etc., But hopefully that will soon be overcome.

What Not To Tell A Scorpio

: Basic Concepts Analysis

February 25, 2009, by kike_1974

This article presents an introduction to basic concepts related to a silent PC (noise, SilentPC, QuietPC, dBA, etc). These concepts are defined, and generally speaking it is a silent PC, and a summary of the most important aspects to consider when building a computer, or silence one that we have now

Sound, Silence and Noise

The sound is simply to fluctuations in air pressure (or otherwise), usually generated by mechanical vibrations from a source that can be perceived by our ears and interpreted by our brain.

The noise is unwanted sound, and usually has a connotation of "disgusting." The concept is ambiguous, since both concepts of "unwanted" and "bad" are subjective. In the area where we are talking about computers, we can consider that all the sound they emit is not desired, so discuss either of sound or noise.

The silence is the absence of sound. This term is also somewhat ambiguous in English, since it also speaks of something is silent "if it is noisy", ie not necessary the total absence of noise for something to be silent. English are more precise terms, both translated as silent, silent and quiet: silent is the "silence" while quiet would be equivalent to "not make much noise." Talking to these terms in English ... PC could be "silent" or not, there is no middle, a PC can not do more or less "silent", it simply is or is not. However, a PC it can be more "quiet", this term provides greater flexibility. And yet, there is always the subjective problem of defining when a PC is no longer "quiet" or not. In Overall, the level of quiet PCs are used and QuietPC SilentPC concepts related to these two terms.

A SilentPC is a PC that does not make any noise. This is practically impossible, stick your ear to the computer always some noise, such as coils of power always make a little noise and small. For this reason, it tends to change the definition and implementation of a distance. It is generally held that a computer is a SilentPC if we can not listen from a distance of 1 meter. This makes the definition a bit less perfect, since there is a degree of variation in what can be heard at a distance of 1 meter, depending on each person's hearing sensitivity and background noise environment in which the computer is.

QuietPC A PC is a low noise we perceive. Unlike a SilentPC, a PC that is impossible to hear, a QuietPC is a PC that, although we hear it, does not make much noise. This concept is very subjective, since what is silent for some people, others may find it noisy.

Therefore, the basis of these definitions are not very strong ... Still commonly used in the field of PCs silent, and in colloquial terms we say that a SilentPC is a PC that can barely hear some distance (1 meter) in a quiet environment, and a QuietPC is a PC that most people do not seem very loud.

Physical and sound units

We have seen that the concepts of noise, silence, and SilentPC QuietPC are not very precise and bounded, so let's see if you can physically quantized.

As mentioned, the sound is waves of pressure. The pressure can be measured physically, and the pressure unit in the international system are the Pascal (Pa) derived from Newtons (units of force) per square meter (unit area). Using this

As you can quantize audio in pascals, but there is a problem, is that not all pressure waves are perceived by our ears. And not all ears are the same, some people can hear sounds of a certain intensity that others can not. Convention is used as a standard, and is considered the threshold at 20MPa (millipascals).

Sound is measured in a unit on these 20MPa, the dB or decibel , which also uses a logarithmic scale. A bel is 10 decibels. The mathematical expressions of the two concepts are:

decibel:

dB = 10 * log 10 (P / 20MPa)

bel:

B = log 10 (P / 20MPa)

where P is the measure of the pressure being measured.

In addition, we must consider some things. Depending on the frequency of sound there are sounds that can not be heard (very high or very low frequencies), and it is also filtering units of measurement. Depending on the isophonic curves are used to filter frequencies are defined dBA, or DBB dBC . The most widespread of these three are the dBA , also called decibels hearing.

And if it was not enough, consider different possible measures that can make the sound. If we consider the total sound generated by a particular source, in general talk about sound power (measured in dBW), but in practice it is very difficult to measure. The sound generated by this source will be distributed in space, and usually measuring devices that can be used (sound level) can be measured at a single point. This measure is a single point known as SPL (sound pressure level), and as we normally see in the data sheets from manufacturers such as dBA (actually dBA SPL).

In short, the sound can be quantized and measured in dBA SPL. But to measure the sound of something (eg a computer) we find these ambiguities:

• is not the same as taking an inch on your computer, take the step to 10 meters. Any measure SPL should specify the distance that has been measured. Still, the same distance from the computer can get different values \u200b\u200bdepending on the position in which action is taken. Standard is generally seen as taking the measure to 1m.
• For a correct measurement of noise from a computer, we should completely isolate the noise from the rest of the environment, and this is very difficult. 10dBA loss is virtually impossible even in an anechoic chamber designed for this purpose. So there will always be added noise in the measurements, and this noise will vary depending on where you have been tested.
• The SPL as a point does not contain information on the type of frequencies containing the signal being measured. It can be a very serious signal or a very sharp signal, and having both the same as SPL, it can be very annoying and the other no change.

is, the SPL as we think of it as a picture of an object from a certain point, we used to get an idea of \u200b\u200bhow it is, but does not provide us any information of that object. And manufacturers do little to improve the situation, using marketting policies that tend to take advantage of these ambiguities, completely baffling to many users who are unaware of these limitations of the measures dBA SPL. Many manufacturers offer dBA measures entirely unrealistic (7dBA are fans or the like, which are impossible), that is to say how they have obtained (perhaps by subtracting the ambient noise of your testing environment ?...).

Therefore, we conclude again, even after trying to quantize things scientifically, that the measures we can find the sound of a computer are ambiguous and depends on many factors measurement. Are useful to compare measurements in the same environment and under the same conditions, but little else. We can not read a measure of a website maker, measure and compare ourselves to our team.

words, all concepts that we discussed: noise, silence, SilentPC, QuietPC, measured in dBA, etc. concepts are ambiguous, and we must be careful when using them. There is always a subjective component definitions. And the measures are always relative, we must consider under what conditions have made the measurements. Noise

computer first thing they ask is why we want a computer without sound. In the daily use the computer without consciously realizing that continuous noise it produces. But I think we have all felt that feeling of rest and relaxation you feel when you turn off your computer and stop listening to the noise it produces. It's much more rewarding to work (or play) with a silent PC with a PC to produce a noticeable noise. Furthermore, under certain circumstances, as in computers dedicated to multimedia playback, multimedia production, etc., It is essential that we hear the background noise of the computer mixed with the sound we're playing. Focusing

already on your computer, the main sources of noise are mechanical components with parts ( hard drives, fans , optical drives, etc.), And certain electronic components without mechanical moving parts (as you can see detailed this article.)

For this reason, if we want to build a silent PC, or try to silence one we already have, we focus on those elements and find solutions. The most common general solutions we use are:

Reduce consumption of components:

This reduces the need for fans or provides that we have fans running at lower speeds and therefore quieter. This reduction in consumption we can look for when choosing components for your PC, for example by looking at consumption different graphics cards, looking at different reviews the use of microprocessors, choosing power sources more efficiently (use less , etc.). We can also reduce consumption through techniques that lower the voltage or frequency of operation of the electronic components (for example, as seen in this guide voltage and frequency settings microprocessor).

Choose a well-designed box:

get much

Help a silent PC choosing a properly designed box, with sufficient ventilation openings (and the right size for quiet fans), design of spaces for well-optimized components, panels do not vibrate easily, etc..

A good case should always be the starting point for any computer you want to ride with the goal of being silent, as it can largely determine the ultimate success. Choose

components suitable cooling elements: Choosing

copper or aluminum heat sinks with larger areas of dissipation, with the help of heat pipes or other technologies may be getting more efficient heat transfer component, and this may allow a lower required air flow for proper cooling. This obviously means less fan noise for the lower speed.

Such elements can be used in the most critical components in consumption and heat generation of the computer: the microprocessor, graphics chip graphics card, motherboard chipset, voltage regulators, reports, etc.

adequate and regular fans Choose your speed:

fans are needed to create an air flow to allow cooling of different items in the box, because normally by natural convection alone is not enough or is not recommended. These fans generate noise in multiple ways: engine noise, friction of mechanical parts, and even the noise of air friction (which may be higher or lower depending on the turbulence generated by the fan).

The first two forms of noise can be avoided only by choosing a proper fan, that is, a quiet fan of quality. The last air friction, is difficult to solve, but what can be done to reduce this noise by lowering the fan speed (thus reducing the air flow) through different techniques (voltage control, PWM, both hardware and software programs such as speedfan ).

Therefore, we choose quiet fans, and to regulate the minimum speed necessary to keep the computer well cooled. I mentioned in previous sections on low power components, computer box in the fridge and adequate dissipation elements, help greatly to make this possible.

Article Fans: Basic Concepts can find more details on the operation of computer fans.

Reduce noise of hard drives:

Hard drives are an item that, by its mechanical nature, generate noise on the computer. Discs are noisier and quieter, so the first intention should always be looking for a quiet drive. Additionally, you can soundproof with commercial solutions, or by other solutions like this using aluminum boxes coolpacks soundproofing. Even

can reduce noise in disk reads and writes using the feature AAM (Automatic Acoustic Management) providing some hard disks.

is also the option to choose an SSD (State Disk solid) that has no mechanical parts, but today are expensive and have no storage capacity provided by hard disks. But I'm sure that in the future will be a very good choice for fans SilentPC.

silent PC Web SilentPC The

This short introduction to the concepts on silent PC will serve as an aid to better understand the ideas to be developed in future articles.

still remains to speak of many individual components of the computer, such as power supplies (which we will want to be as efficient as possible and have fan thermoregulated) motherboards and chipsets, graphics, etc. All these elements go into articles that will cover adding to this site.

These articles will be added recommendations on various components of a computer (Computer Cases, CPU and GPU heatsinks, fans, power supplies, etc.) So as to obtain a silent PC. Ye shall find when they are finished in different sections devoted to articles on this website.

In the next articles will show as an example of my three PCs silent PCs today, dedicated to different purposes:

silent PC
• Example 1: Download server, with optional performance and moderate gaming PC
silent
• Example 2: HTPC dedicated to multimedia playback
silent PC
• Example 3: Computer Performance and games for

Who Does The Jack In The Box Voice

12

On the web known AnandTech have done a analysis of 12 power between 500 and 550W, with some very interesting results.

This review is a continuation of a previous one in which reviewed 20 power, between 300 and 450W.

This time the sources analyzed are:

• Arctic Cooling Fusion 550R
• Akasa GreenPower AK-PT050FG
BFG LS-550 500W SilentPro
• Cooler Master Corsair HX520W
• Enermax Liberty ELT500AWT-ECO Eco
OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ500MXSP
• Sunbeam Tuniq Potency POT550
• Seasonic SS-500gm M12II
• Seasonic SS-500GB S12II
• Tagan TG500-U33II SuperRock
• PipeRock Tagan BZ500

Some of these sources are difficult to find in our country, but others are very common and is usually spoken or question in different forums dedicated to information technology, as the Corsair, the OCZ, the Seasonic, etc.

are interesting to us, from the point of view of a silent PC, the analysis of noise sources and efficiency, which in this review you can see some surprises. Noise analysis also must be considered together with the cooling capacity of the source: if the source is noisy but gets hotter than expected, then it is highly recommended.

• Refrigeration
• Noise
• Efficiency

Soon publish an article on recommended sources for a silent PC, using data from multiple reviews that I've been collecting over time, and I hope you find interesting. In this Anandtech review of absence for example Modu82 Enermax PRO82 + and +, considered among the quietest in its range.

Dickies Painter Pants Will Shrink

Anandtech Noise sources in electronic components without mechanical parts sink Prolima

February 24, 2009, by kike_1974

Some electronic components can make noise even yet having no moving parts. We find in the forums dedicated to computer lots of threads saying that a certain component makes noise power. "

In this small article we will discuss this problem and some solutions that can allow eventually eliminate such noises.

first comment is that it is wrong to call this type of noise in this way, because in reality it is not electrical noise itself. Although the habit and we tend to call colloquially. In fact, the electrical noise is another entirely different concept related to the field of electricity / electronics. The other noise we are talking about is sound produced by vibration of electrical components in a circuit. colloquially call it precisely because electrical noise produce it electrical items). Specifically, this noise is produced capacitors (capacitances) and coils (chokes) under certain loads. Is also related to combinations of components, a graph can make noise with a power supply and motherboard specific, but changing the motherboard or the noise source may disappear.

An example of how to produce this noise: A coil generates a magnetic field (the electric and magnetic field are related, see Maxwell laws), and this field can produce physically vibrate the coil (a high frequency vibration .) By vibrating pressure waves generated high frequency, which is what occurs to us that we hear high-pitched sound. If the vibration produces a resonance effect, the effect is even higher (with some components that may aggravate the situation, depends on more things, so there are combinations of critical components).

sometimes I have suffered this problem on my computers, I remember my old GeForce 6600 that creaked like crazy about putting a game. Was passive, very quiet my PC (phantom 500 passive, a scythe ninja at low rpm, etc.), And the noise was unbearable to me.

An easy way to check if we have this kind of noise is to use the utility "Show 3D View" ATITool program, which shows a kind of hub. This cube is a high burden of consumption and fairly constant, which clearly tends to accentuate the noise "power" produced by our graphic if it is

Solutions

This problem has some solutions, I comment as follows:

Choose

• components that we know in advance that do not generate these noises :
  may seem obvious, but it is the best possible solution to the problem. There are certain components that the quality of its elements are prone to this type of noise, and is best avoided. At the end of the article included a link where you can see a list of combinations of components noisy / not noisy. The most successful is to find components that include solid state capacitors and inductors, ferrite as conveniently encapsulated and isolated.


• Component Change:
  Obviously this is the last solution we want for obvious reasons ... additional cost to us and stop using compoenentes we already have.


• Change electrical load components:
  Changing the load to be the source can get the problematic elements vibrate at different frequencies and stop producing the problem. Sometimes some undervolting or overvolting in micro or chart solves the problem. In my case, a former micro (Athlon64 3200 +) by simply varying the voltage 0.01V, making noise let the system.


• Force vsync in Figure :
  Many modern graphics make this type of noise when calculating too many frames per second. Enabling the vsync option in many cases reduces the noise (by limiting the number of frames per second to monitor refresh rate). This works for example with many GTX260/GTX280.


• Improving nutrition noise filtering: Often
  the problem comes from a dirty electric signal to the input of PC (electrical noise that is really ...). You can try to filter out the noise of the input with a voltage stabilizer (a ups for example) or similar. In many cases this eliminates the problem (by eliminating stray voltage frequency). Have also been reported cases where simply changing the power cable on the other PC also solves the problem.


• Search capacitors / coils that make noise, soundproof :
  This is the most elaborate, is to identify and isolate problematic elements using a material (Liquid / resin) to coat. You can even use substances such as nail polish or glue (such as "Loctite"). The method for doing this are explained in this article .

Finally, add a link to a discussion forum which is updated n3D a list of noisy and not noisy combinations of different users: Combinations

noisy / not noisy

Search For Teddy Swoes

New Megahalems

A new manufacturer of coolers, Prolima (founded in 2008), has taken the sink Prolima Megahalems . There are comments in the web on this new cooler saying that the results are spectacular. SilentPCReview has made a detailed review of the sink, confirming the spectacular results. [More ...]

Some photos of this sink (the product page):

In silentpcreview, the web's largest network dedicated to SilentPC have made a review of this sink

In the review one can see how this heatsink is among the best (Thermalright HR-01, Noctua NH-U12P, Xigmatek S1283, Scythe Ninja, etc.) low air flows (just what we want in a silent PC), even better results.

But even more surprising is that more air flows improves the performance of all above sinks.

brings no fan series. For the review of silentpc the manufacturer has provided a fan with the following characteristics in silentpcreview). A penalty Autet on the proposed rate should include the fan with the heatsink.

Another drawback is that it is hard to find, so far in Europe there is only one store, Caseking , where you can buy in Germany. Hopefully soon we can see at a store

English is also the problem of price, about 60 €, sinks "top" performance, as the Noctua NH-U12P or Thermalright Ultra-120 more additional fan, you can get also about 60 € (but with fan). Be seen in any case the price at which they sold once you have a more widespread distribution.

Here you can find more reviews of this sink (I will update the list):

• Case and Cooling

Miniature Schnauzer Enlarged Heart

New forum devoted to computer: PC Hard-SilentPC

recently has begun to operate the forum Hard-PCs dedicated to the world of PCs in general. It has lots of interesting sections, including cooling-section SilentPC . Take some time and yet there are many threads open, but a matter of time. Also you can find me in that other forum:)

Doujin-moe Account Info

New section in the forum "Esoeslodemenos" Silent Consoles

The forum opens today esoeslodemenos a new section dedicated to refrigeration and SilentPC. The particular section is SilentPC here. We already have a place in which to discuss what components are most appropriate if look for a quiet computer. Sure I'll see you there ...

Evinrude 9.5 Sportwin Rpm

Comparison of 35 fans

PCs not only suffer the noise problem is also common for game consoles (xbox, playstation, wii, etc.) Are noisy. There are some interesting commercial solution, as it proposed in XBIT-labs, based on the implementation in a Lian-li.

How To Do Ap Bio Lab Nine

consumption of graphics cards

Web In madshrimps have made a comparison of 35 fans .

comparative study is the noise of each of the fans at 5V, 7V and 12V, and as the temperature of a test system to the same speeds. The comparison is very interesting

Where Is A Pokemon Heart Gold Rom For Mac

UPDATE: May 03, by kike_1974 February 19, 2009, by kike_1974

There is a great deal of misinformation about the actual consumption of graphics cards. This consumption is important to recognize, especially, to know what power we need for our graphics. Manufacturers often give power values \u200b\u200bnecessary for a graph well above the real, so much information circulating normally are not correct.

addition

be important to size the power consumption is also important if we want to build a silent PC. The less you eat the graphic part and save on your electricity bill, the easier it is silence silently.

This article is a compilation of consumption of graphics cards

This collection is a very extensive collection of different Websites and calculations for estimates of consumption of different graphs. In the collection there are some graphs for which there is a more accurate value (in xbitlabs, where the measurement is done directly on power lines graph) and other estimates (in the other sites where they give a measure only of the full PC).

this demanding task mark84 I'm working with atomicmpc forum. In this thread you can find more information on what pages have been used and other useful information.

Some comments on data:

- These data do not need to be taken as being accurate, but as a guideline. In each model can be variations for different manufacturers such as distributing the same models with different frequencies, or over time improve the manufacturing process of a single chip, etc.

- The PCIe graphics consume practically all of the 12V line from the source (as opposed to AGP and PCI graphics oldest Basante also needed on the line current at 5V). Dividing consumption shown in Table 12 to leave the amp needs some graphic 12V line.

Data:

-date data can be found in this new thread: consumption of graphics cards: update

How To Make A Motorcyclewith Sugar

Fan Control: speedfan Soundproofing

February 19, 2009, by kike_1974

Speedfan is a program that allows you to use certain features of the motherboard chips dedicated to monitoring temperature, fan speeds, and control of the latter.

The program has many settings, and has extensive documentation. In this article you can find a guide that I have written this program settings to configure the fan speed control connected to the motherboard. I hope that helps.

Actually, this is a guúa I wrote some time ago (12/27/2007) n3D forum, the original guide can be found here . The wire from in that forum is very interesting, because you can find more examples, and many questions and doubts resolved.

The guide is made with the 4.33 version of speedfan, and is currently available for version 4.37, but no major changes as far as fan control settings are concerned. There are more plates and sensors supported by the program, but how to configure them remains the same.

Index:

1. Introduction

• Analog and Digital Control Type Fan

Control Software

2. speedfan settings

• Installation Configuring
• Enable control through speedfan
Renaming
• Automatic

1. Introduction:

analog and digital control:

There are several ways to control the fan speed on a computer and can be classified into two types: control analog and digital control.

The analog control is to vary the voltage supplied to the fan. A fan is operating normally 12V, but to reduce this voltage is then also reduces its speed. The voltage can be reduced in different ways:

- Directly: You can regulate to 5V or 7V taking advantage of the power supply voltages also directly provide 5V (the 7V is obtained as the difference between 12V and 5V). In this link is useful information on how to use this mode.

- Using a voltage regulator, typically using a potentiometer or other electronic elements (diodes, transistors, etc..) That regulates the voltage to obtain any desired voltage. Usually these involve a consumer electronics and is one of the disadvantages. Many commercial rehobuses (zalman ZM-MFC1, sunbeam rev.2, etc.) Use analog control by this method. Also at this link there is useful information about this other method, and circuits to build a home so rehobús.

The digital control however not based on the voltage regular fan, but to hit the fan pulse signals, known as PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). In this case the voltage is not regulated, it is always 12V, but is not applied consistently, but to pulse, as seen for example in the following figure:

This control method is the commonly used connectors for motherboards, and some drivers of commercial fans (the zalman ZM-MFC2 for example). Some 3-pin fans controlled by this method tend to make noise "click" (especially at low speeds) because they come to power jumps.

types of fans:

addition to the type of control, we must bear in mind that there are two types of fans, 3 pin and 4 pin.

- 3-pin fans are the most common and can be found more easily in the market. The three cords that have correspond to GND (black), VCC (red) and sensor (yellow). VCC is the supply (which regulates or is connected to a PWM signal if we lower the speed) and the sensor is used to read fan speed. There are some fans who only have two threads, which lack the yellow and therefore can not know its speed.

- 4-pin fans are an attempt to improve control by PWM on fans to prevent click-noise that can do (trying to feed the fan constantly.) Therefore, in this type of fan is divided into two classic DC cable, one to feed constantly to 12V, and a low current to connect the PWM signal. In total four wires: GND (black), VCC (yellow), sensor (green) and control (blue). For more details of the standard 4-pin can be consulted specifications.

Not all motherboards based on PWM and regulators are prepared to 4-pin fans, but most modern boards tend to include this feature (selectable in the BIOS what type of fan is connected, for example Asus boards can select between [DC] to 3-pin and [PWM] to 4-pin). Regardless of what is used, can be regulated by PWM for any of the above methods.

Control software:

The different forms of control fans have their advantages and disadvantages, but a cheap and regular fans is controlled by the actual functionality of the motherboard. Many motherboards now allow for PWM control fans, and can be properly configured through the BIOS (eg ASUS Q-fan) or some proprietary software (as in plates A-bit).

A fairly widespread control software that takes advantage of this functionality is motherboards speedfan, and allows greater control over the settings that would normally allow the bios. Works on Windows XP and Vista, what does not for example Linux users. Neither supports all motherboards on the market, but in general, if the board can control the fans through the bios then it is quite likely to also be with speedfan.

This mini-guide fan control via software will focus on speedfan control by using the connectors on the motherboard. This is a PWM control and inherits its advantages (no consumption) and inconvenitentes (click-noise possible in some 3-pin fans.) The main advantages that I find is that it is free and does not need to add more clutter to your PC: mrgreen:

One of the things I usually do before buying a motherboard is to make sure that you can control the fans with speedfan: D You have to be careful with what fans choose to avoid the click-noise, but the most common quality fans tend not to have (nexus, scythe, noctua, papst, etc. .)

2. Speedfan settings: Let

already what we want, how to configure this program (speedfan) to get control the fan speed through PWM through the proper connectors on the motherboard.

Note: I will use as examples in the different sections Motherboard ASUS P5W DH Deluxe, as it has 5 fan connectors supporting speedfan. In other boards with fewer connectors setup is even easier.

1. Installation

first is logically install speedfan ( http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php ) and run it. The latest version of speedfan (as of writing this mini-guide) is 4.33, which supports reading the temperature of the cores in current processors (C2D, Athlon X2, etc.) And the nvidia graphics (not I know the support that has ATI graphics.) Running speedfan

us a window that looks like this (the names that appear will be different):

In this window there are several important parts:

- The part marked in the catch as "Fan Speed" appear in this part of the fan connectors on the motherboard to identify speedfan, and in the case of a ventilator indicate the fan speed.

- The part marked "Temperature Sensors" appear different sensors to identify speedfan (cores of the CPU, graphics sensor, sensors, hard disks, motherboard chipsets, etc.).

- Part marked "Speed \u200b\u200bControl" drivers appear speed who has the motherboard, and with them a% of adjustable speed. Until you properly configure the speedfan will not work, change the speed to get the fans need to set a few things that I will discuss below.

Besides these 3 main parts, two other important things that we can fix:

- Set Button: This button is crucial, because from here you can access the main settings which will access speedfan in the following paragraphs.

- Automatic Speed \u200b\u200b Box: Allows you to select the fan speed change automatically according to different temperatures in different sensors. But there are still a few things to configure before this works ... : Mrgreen:

Of other things which appear also talk, but at the end of this mini-guide, as they provide additional functionality but do nothing to control fan speed.

2. Configuration options

speedfan

Before configuring the fans, we can configure the program (language, startup mode, etc.). To do this you can press the Configure button main window and go to the tab Options. Here not much to configure, I usually simply select the language and select the option to start minimized (well, if we add in our home folder to start whenever you boot your PC, speedfan will start directly in the taskbar).

Other options to change font sizes, colors, etc.., Each make them taste;)

3. Enable control through speedfan starts here

important. So that we can control the fans, we first need to enable speedfan control. If not enabled, then normal is to make the changes he has control of the fans, and as much as we play all the parameters of speedfan consiguremos no nothing.

Speedfan To enable you should go to Configure (as before, clicking on the button from the main window readings), and in the window that appears go to the Advanced tab . Where it Chip, we must select our motherboard chip that controls the fans. Examples:
- In my ASUS P5W DH Deluxe is called "Winbond W83627DHG on ISA at $ 290."
- In my ASUS A8N-VM (CSM) is called "Winbond W83627EFH at $ 290 on ISA"

Once we select the chip, you will see options for that chip. The values \u200b\u200bthat must be changed to enable control through speedfan are PWM mode values. There may be various PWM (PWM 1 mode, PWM mode 2, PWM 3 mode, etc..) Each related to a speed control. Do not have to run all our board (the Winbond chip can be mounted on different motherboards). We try to identify which ones have our motherboard, but the best is to enable all control by speedfan.

To enable them, you should select the option that allows software control, but not called the same on all motherboards. In one called "Manual PWM Mode" on other "Software Controlled" and may be more different names.

For example, the P5W DH Deluxe, the values \u200b\u200bmust be changed so that we can control the fans with speedfan are PWM 1 mode, PWM mode 2, PWM 3 mode, PWM 4 mode. As the default ones that your BIOS allow whoever controls the fans. We have to change these 4 values \u200b\u200bto "Manual PWM Control" to control them with speedfan.

The window looks like this:

Once we have set this control through speedfan. We can change fan speeds from speedfan main window (tab Readings ). Changing the percentages shown should change fan speeds manually (for example, under the% for PWM1 should slow the fan connected to CPU_FAN).

With what we've seen so far, we can study our motherboard, and check what fans change speed by changing the% of each mode.

Case Study:

After studying a bit of my plate, I have determined that you have 5 fan connectors: CPU_FAN, CHA_FAN1, CHA_FAN2, PWR_FAN1 and PWR_FAN2.

Correspondence PWM modes with the connectors is as follows (I've given changing the speed manually for each PWM and noticing that fans changed):
PWM1 -> CHA_FAN1 and CHA_FAN2
PWM2 -> CPU_FAN
PWM3 -> CHA_FAN1 and CHA_FAN2
PWM4 -> PWR_FAN1 and PWR_FAN2

This PWM1 and PWM3 plate are the same even though it appears twice in the configuration. We really have 5 connectors but only 3 speeds configurable (PWM2 CPU_FAN set speed, PWM1 the CHA_FANn configured and configured PWM4 of PWR_FANn).

In this practical example 5 fans with speedfan I control the CPU (CPU_FAN by PWM2), the rear fan housing (PWR_FAN1 by PWM4), the source supply (PWR_FAN2 by PWM4), the panel (CHA_FAN1 by PWM1) and a front fan pointing to the region of the plot (CHA_FAN2 by PWM1). Thus choosing the fan chart and the front work at the same speed (PWM1) and the case and power supply will also go to the same speed (PWM4).

4. Renaming PWM modes and fans

easier to remember what is what, we can change the names in speedfan. It's hard to remember why we changed to change PWM2 fan, but if we give it another name ("fan CPU "for example) will be easier to remember.

Having seen the previous paragraph and know what the fans associated with each of the names that appear in the main window, in the section where the sensors are" Speed Fan, "as in the section on" Cruise Control "which had marked earlier.

Investigating a little more, we can also find out which components corresponding temperatures on the right in the" Temperature Sensors. " Some are obvious from the name (for instance called hd0 corresponds to a hard drive), but others can cost further investigation. To find out eg what is the graph we can run the ATITool or a game and see which one increases its temperature. Some of the temperatures displayed are meaningless, may correspond simply not connected to sensors that identifies speedfan.

Having identified all the fans and sensors, we can proceed to change the names. The procedure is simple, just go to the section you want to change the settings (tabs temperatures, and Fan Speeds ) and simply click on the name you want to change.

In the example we using the Asus P5W DH Deluxe, those tabs would be well after changing the names:

Note: If a sensor, temperature or control do not want to appear in the main window, then clear the check box that appears to the left of its name.

5. Speed \u200b\u200bsettings for automatic control

So far we have all set up to control fans manually using the area of \u200b\u200b"Fan Control" in the main window ( Readings ). But this mode has a small drawback, is that every time you start speedfan fans start automatically become 100%. So whether you want to leave them at a constant value (eg 50%), or if you want to automatically switch between multiple values \u200b\u200bvary according to temperature (eg 40-60%), we must use the automatic control.

To set the automatic control of fans is there are several steps:

1) Set minimum and maximum speed of each fan
2) Select the temperature desired temperature for each sensor
3) Attach fan to each temperature sensor
4) Select option to automatically control

Let's see in detail these 4 steps:

1) Set minimum and maximum speeds for each fan:

must be set for each fan a minimum and maximum speed of operation. For that we in Set the tab speeds. Each PWM sensor that appears in that window do the following:

In minimum value to at least put the value we want to run the fan (in%). In maximum value we the maximum value (also in%). And finally, and very important , tick the box automatically Vary . (Note: if you want a fan to run at a constant rate sufficient to set the minimum and maximum value equal to the constant value).

For example, I set on my plate the fans controlled by PWM1 (the graphics and front in my example) vary between 35% and 65%:

2) Select desired temperatures for each temperature sensor:

The next step is to decide at what temperature we want is each component (desired temperature). The program will try to maintain that temperature speedfan up the fan speed if needed, or will the fans at minimum speed you've set up if necessary.

also has a safety mechanism, which works by putting the fans to 100% if it reaches a certain temperature (temperature of attention ").

That is, we need to set two different temperatures for each sensor: the "desired temperature" and the "temperature of attention."

In the following example, I set the desired temperature to 47 º C core0, and the temperature of care at 58 ° C.

speedfan

This attempt to maintain the temperature of 47 º C. As the temperature is lower, the fans are at a minimum. If the core temperature reaches 47 º C, the speedfan start up automatically speed up the value he deems necessary, to how much speed we have selected the fan. If that speed is not enough, then logically core0 temperature rise, but if it reaches 58 ° C, then activated the security system and all fans will be 100% regardless of the selected maximum temperature.

3) Attach fan to each temperature sensor

The next step is to select which fans will act for each sensor. We could let all the fans are associated with all sensors, but would not be very well optimized, for example does not make sense that we speed up the fan of the graphic if being heated is the micro, or vice versa.

why should only the fans that cool specific components should be associated with the temperature sensor that component.

In my example, the selection would look like:

4) Select option to automatically control

Finally, to operate the automatic control, do not forget to highlight the Speed \u200b\u200bAutomatic in the main window ( Readings ) and we have set everything to automatic control of fans with speedfan.

Patterns For Fleece Shawls

Hard Drives with Voltage and Frequency Control Software Construction

February 19, 2009, by kike_1974

One way to get a quieter PC is slowing down the fans. But this must be done without endangering the correct proper cooling of components. One way to facilitate the possibility of reducing the speed and the fans is to get the components consume less. In this article we will focus on the microprocessor.

can get a micro eat less by reducing their frequency and voltage, in fact, consumption is proportional to the square of frequency and operating voltage. You can use different programs (software) to modify the frequency and voltage values \u200b\u200bduring operation of the micro. In this article we will see some of these programs (RMClock, CrystalCPUID) and how they work.

Introduction:

Note: This guide was originally published on 6/2/2008 Noticias3D forum, namely here.

This guide is designed to have a cooler, quieter PC, and incidentally to consume something less. The method of control of voltages and frequencies for software that we will see is exactly the same as that used C & Q and EIST, but in this guide we'll work out a lot more advantage of the opportunities offered by the micro that these two technologies from AMD and INTEL.

One of the key when seeking a quiet PC is to find components with the lowest possible to generate as little heat as possible and easier with fewer cooling fans or fans with fewer turns. Also associated with this lower consumption we associate an energy bill a little smaller.

One component where we can get reduce the heat generated is the microprocessor. The first question is it worth it?. First some accounts:

A kW / h currently costs € 0.092834 (BOE.29-12-07), and that price should apply the electricity duty and VAT. Ie, total taxes are (0.092834 * 1.05113) * 4.864% and VAT, ie the total cost is ((0.092834 * 1.05113) * 1.04864) * 1.16 = 0.1187, or rounding a 12 cents per kW / h . It is indeed impressive (or a shame ...) we pay almost 30% tax on electricity ... but hey, that's another topic ...

For example, a computer to download 24 / 7 to consume about 100W each year consumes about 0.1 * 24 * 365 * 12 = 105 €. If undervolting 20W conseguiéramos down, would be 0.08 * 24 * 365 * 12 = 84 €. Or what is, for every 10W of us to reduce consumption, we save about 10 € a year. Given that the accounts we have made on the assumption that the computer is always on because it is not much. Then

reason to undervolting is not to save, but above all to have better temperatures in the micro and the PC to have more silent, and here it is worth as differences temperature itself that are important to lower voltages. While the small savings we get are also welcome. Previous concepts

:

is important to talk about pre-theoretical concepts to better understand what we do. In addition there are many misconceptions about what a Vcore, which is a VID, etc. Let's start with these concepts:

FSB (Front Side Bus Frequency): The frequency at which the board works. Most components work with the reference speed (micro, memory, etc.). FIDs

(frequency identifiers) : A code encoding different frequency references with respect to the FSB. Usually they are multipliers (x8, x9, etc.). The frequency at which a processor operates depends on the FSB (reference) and FID (multiplier). The IDF are totally dependent on micro, some buses have more FIDs than others. This issue is well known in the field of overclocking so I do not entertain a lot with him. The FID can be set in the BIOS, but everything that interests us is that you can also change the software (eg Cool & Quiet and EIST FIDs change dynamically).

Vcore: is the voltage the motherboard provides the microprocessor. There are plates for fixing this voltage to different values. Normally there is an option "Auto" and other options specific values. These values \u200b\u200bdepend entirely on the motherboard manufacturer and regulators to include. Overclocking is common to increase this voltage to a fixed value greater than the stock voltage to run the micro at higher speeds. You can also decrease, and is a way to undervolting (through the BIOS, but what we want in this guide is to change the software). Has the disadvantage that once set to a value we lose control of the vids (which we discussed what are the next paragraph).

VID: A vid has nothing to do with the Vcore, confused these two concepts is one of the most common mistakes. A VID is a code that encodes a possible values \u200b\u200bof voltage division. Usually taken as the reference voltage of 3.3 V provides the motherboard to the micro. It can be seen as a VID voltage equivalent to the frequency multipliers. The VID are changed by software (eg Cool & Quiet and EIST modify the vids). Depending on the micro can be more or less VIDS available (as happens with multipliers). The problem is that the VID always use a fixed voltage reference that can not be changed, unlike the FSB multiplier used as a reference and it can be modified. There may be a plate that allows a variable voltage reference, but today I know not. As the VID are referenced to a fixed voltage, it is customary to refer to them by their values \u200b\u200b(1.1V VID, VID of 1.16V, etc.) Unlike IDF that having variable reference is better to use relative values \u200b\u200b(x6 , x7, x8, etc.).

In summary, we can change the frequency and voltage to the microphone works by changing the FSB, and then one of two ways: by changing the Vcore and multiplier in the BIOS, or modifying software and vids FIDs. Normally these two forms are mutually exclusive (although there are exceptions). In this mini-guide we will discuss the second form (by software).

Cool & Quiet and EIST : These two technologies do exactly the same (and very similar to what we do ourselves). Both change dynamically depending on VID and FID micro load. For example, an E6600 uses a stock voltage of 1.225V at 2.4GHz, but if the bus is idle ("on idle") is then automatically change its VID and FID to run at 1.6GHz at 1.1V. Logically to operate these technologies need to be configured in the BIOS the voltages on "Auto" and the multipliers also in "Auto" (although there are exceptions as we have said, some boards allow work C & Q and EIST even setting a voltage on the BIOS, but it is not common and not something standard, so that we can not in general use). Change

vids and software FIDs

Well, we know the previous concepts. What are we going to do? Then we will modify the vids and FIDs as C & Q and EIST but we like to find the combination of undervolting / overvolting underclocking / overclocking that we like, and even use profiles.

Advantages:

- Changing Dynamic frequency and voltage dynamically according to load the micro

- If the microphone does nothing consumes much less

- If the microphone is to stop it also consumes less if we put a voltage lower than stock

- We can even overclock dynamically when needed

- We may use and change profiles manually by software Disadvantages

:

- the vids are limited (as multipliers). For example, my E6600 the lowest possible VID is 1.1V and the largest is 1.325V. Thus OC can not do beyond the 1.325V, or lower consumption when the micro does not do anything below 1.1V. Some buses have greater flexibility (my X2 4800 + brisbane allowed from 0.8V to 1.4V). For Otherwise there is no other problem.

- rely on software, and may not be available for all operating systems. I know no equivalent software for Linux for example (although there may be).

programs that can be used to modify dynamically the vids and FIDs are
- RMClock (free, although a fuller version of payment)
- CrystalCPUID (free)
- notebook hardware control (free aimed at laptops.) Search

optimal values \u200b\u200bof frequencies and voltages

First

before configure anything is to know our micro, and learn about all what are the values \u200b\u200bwe want to use.

This is the heaviest part as happens when we seek stable values \u200b\u200bfor OC. We need to find appropriate values \u200b\u200bfor the FSB (the BIOS) and the VID and FID we want to use. Since the FSB is not going to change software but leave a fixed value in the BIOS (which may be the default if you do not want to do OC), omit it to simplify things a bit.

therefore we have to find stable values \u200b\u200bof VID and FID. Each pair VID / FID will call state. It is advisable to have at least 3 states, one with values \u200b\u200bfor maximum operating frequency, one for low and an intermediate. CrystalCPUID can be configured with 3 states, whereas as many as FIDs RMClock exist.

important thing is that values \u200b\u200bare stable. There are many ways to look, here everyone has their method. One option is to start from the stock values \u200b\u200bof micro and start a program that stressed out the microphone and detects errors such as prime95 or orthos. And then go step by step down the voltage, allowing time between 5 and 10 minutes between each step. It is important to check that has really changed the voltage, we can use for this CPU-z. Before reaching a total value inestableorthos usually give errors. In this case we raised the voltage a step to the previous value and so on until no errors. When no errors should leave a few hours on orthos with these values \u200b\u200bto verify that it is stable (12 to 24 hours).

To change the voltage on these steps we can use CrystalCPUID in the Function menu select the option for Intel SpeedStep Enhanted micros intel or AMD K6/K7/K8 Multiplier for AMD (and leave other options for other micros). We will get a screen like this:

we can go in trying different voltages and multipliers. Capture it all together (CrystalCPUID, orthos and cpu-z):

And it's a matter of keep trying. I specifically use this method when it falls into my hands a new micro:

- Using stock FSB, I look for each multiplier (FID) lower VID that is stable.
- If I get something to OC: look for the FSB to which the maximum multiplier (FID) is stable at maximum voltage (VID). Sounds confusing but it is not so;). This is the best OC we can do for software, since we can not put voltages greater than the maximum VID for software. By the way, not to walk continuously rebooting the PC looking for that land value use the program clockgen for changing the FSB via software. And let the FSB, and in the same way as before for each FID seek the lowest VID that is stable.
- Finally I note the table of FID / VIDS obtained for my micro in a file to have the data for the future.

After all this, our data should be prepared.

Examples:

Example 1)

In my E6600 I did these values:

- The FSB with which the multiplier is stable up to the maximum VID 338 I got, so I set this value in the BIOS.
- The table with FID minimum vids that were stable:

• x6 -> 1.132 V (2 GHz approx.)
  
• x7 -> 1.132 V (2.4 GHz approx.)
  
• x8 -> 1.132 V (2, 7 GHz approx.)
  
• x9 -> 1.340 V (3 GHz approx.)

(1,132 V is the lowest VID of this micro, but we could put lower values).

Example 2):

Another example, my Athlon X2 4800 + brisbane:

- I leave the FSB at 200 by default, since this micro does not do anything about OC
- Table of FID / VIDS (3 FIDs calculated only in this case):

• x5 -> 0.8 V (1GHz)
  
• x8 -> 0.950 V (1.6 GHz) x12.5
  
• -> 1.2 V (2.5 GHz)

These voltage values \u200b\u200bare very below the values \u200b\u200bthat came from stock (both for idle with C & Q as the maximum value), the temperature dropped considerably.

Once we have calculated the states that we will use the fun begins to set our programs (CrystalCPUID, RMClock) to make the changes automatically. Change

FID / CrystalCPUID automatically VIDS:

With CrystalCPUID is use "multiplier management."

First, to set up, we File menu and select the option management multiplier setting. We will get a screen like this:

can define 3 states: maximum, middle and minimun.

In all three we can see that we can associate a multiplier and VID (must be left button clicked Enable Voltage capture as to change the vids).

value Time Interval is the time it takes to change the multiplier from the last change. It is a security system in case, for not allowing many sudden changes in voltage in a short space of time. We can leave as the default.

values \u200b\u200b Up and Down threshold are those that indicate what charge must have the microphone to the higher state or returning to the bottom.

For example, I in my E6600 I have it configured to pass the maximum state (9x) only if the load is above 90% and only step to that state (which is 3 GHz to 1.32 V) only when really necessary. Typically, the micro moves between states 6x and 8x, both with the minimum voltage of 1.1 V (and the microphone is quite chilly).

Of other options may be interesting:

Trigger Switch: indicated in cases of multiple cores which are considered as micro load: the maximum of any of them, the media, etc. Exit
mode: indicates if we close the program in which state makes the mic.
Up and Down : sequences indicate which states are allowed breaks

Well, CrystalCPUID should be configured to operate automatically. We can only go to the Function menu and select the "Multiplier Management. We will see in the taskbar icon CrystalCPUID the blue when you are in the state minimum, yellow for medium and red for maximum.

Finally, if we always start the CrystalCPUID we get into windows, then we can create a shortcut and add the / HIDE / CQ and add it in our home folder. Change

FID / VIDS automatically and RMClock profiles:

This other program is a bit more intuitive to use and has the advantage that it can use profiles.

There are two versions of the program, a free and a paying. I have no payment and I will discuss only the free version. The fee includes the ability to create custom profiles, but those coming in the free version we can make do quite a bit.

This free version can use these 4 sides

• 
  
• No Power Saving management
  
• 
  
• Maximun Performance Performance on Demand

The first is simply to disable the operation of the program. The next two are used to associate each of these profiles a single state (VID / FID), normally the maximum and minimum, but we can configure with which we want. And the last to select all states that want between those who want to automatically switch the program.

Configuration is done in two steps. First you tell the program what the IDF and vids of our micro (which we already calculated before.) Is set on the "profiles":

is possible that the names of the vids do not exactly match the names we came out in CrystalCPUID. This is normal because they are simply labels (remember that the vids are not the same as the Vcore).

Once configured, we configure the profiles. Following the example of my E6600:

In this example I have configured the 3 profiles as follows:

- Power Saving: FID: x6 (micro to 2 GHz)
- Max. Performance: FID: x9 (micro to 3GHz)
- Perf. On Demand: Varies between x6 and x8 (mictro between 2 and 2.7 GHz). I typical

Performance on Demand profile by default (at the top of the catch that I have set before the profiles can be set which is the default profile that says "Startup"). So my micro varies between the states of 2 and 2.7 GHz according to the load of the bus, in which matches are to the minimum possible voltage (both).

If I need to leave your PC at night with downloads change the Power Saving profile.

if I need to rock it to the bus, for example to encode a mpeg, then change the profile Max. Performance (micro to 3GHz with mild OC).

profile is changed easily by clicking the left mouse button on the icon in the taskbar RMClock:

The remaining configuration is done in the Settings window, Management and Advanced CPU Settings. The program is fairly intuitive, so I think no need to explain in detail each of the options. Still get a snapshot of these screens if you want to see my settings in case of doubt